时装秀场在建筑学角度,是一种时间与空间密集相互感知的四维设计。好似飞行建筑事务所第三次为YINGPEI STUDIO设计的秀场,进化为一场经过计算的极简短剧,分为五段式。

From the perspective of architecture, fashion show is a four-dimensional design that time and space interact closely. The third time House Fiction designed fashion show for YINGPEI STUDIO, has evolved into a minimal drama with physical calculation. It was divided into five stages.

video-The Unbalanced Needle ©好似飞行


开端 | Beginning


The base of the installation was a big black box with mechanism. The 8-meter-long needle was supported by the box at a quarter of its length . The initial state showed the audience the illusion of balance maintained by the motor.

catwalking ©好似飞行


rod deformation analysis ©好似飞行

It was necessary to avoid deformation at the end of the 6-meter cantiliver rod (referred to needle).  In order to determine the deformation degree of the rod, the SAP2000 software was used to analyse the deformation of the steel rod with a cross-section of P60x1.5. The results showed that its high density caused thedeformation of the deflection at the end of the rod to be too obvious (see the first row of the diagram below),which did not meet the design requirements. In order to achieve the ideal linear appearance of the rod, carbon fiber rod was chosen because it used for aviation equipment with elastic modulus close to steel but its density is only 1/5 of steel, and the strength is 10 times that of it. After calculation, the deformation of the deflection at the end of the carbon fiber rod with the same cross-section is significantly smaller than that of the steel one (see the second row of the diagram below), which was acceptable on the appearance. The cost of an single 8-meter-long rod exceeded the budget, so four 2-meter-long ready-made rods connected by jacket tube became the solution. The volume of the installation achieved the best performance based on the space size, the height of the model, the line of sight of the audience and the comparison of its own components.

initial state ©好似飞行


延展 | Development

全场暗下来,走秀音乐起,灯光随着第一个模特出场的脚步渐亮,至形成一个C型秀道。指针被模特开启旋转,或说引领着模特,随分秒流逝在圆形空间中环绕。 一线带两点的运动便撑起直径28米的油罐空间。圆中心的黑匣子隐匿于黑暗中,光线随针头流动。人们在十多分钟内将对这平淡的重复转动习以为常。

the  optimization of the installation scale ©好似飞行

When the interior went dark and the music was turned on, the lights gradually brightened with the appearance of the first model until the runway was illuminated into a C shape. The needle rotated and ledmodels in the circular space as time went by. The movement of one line with two points happened in this 28-meter-diameter circular space. The big black box in the center of the circular space was hidden in the dark. Light was flowing with needle head. The audience became numb to this repetitive rotation in more than ten minutes.

catwalking ©好似飞行


In order to prevent the long rod from shaking during rotation, when testing with a 100mm-diameter steel tube,  it is possible to adjust  with a counterweight in cavity. After changing to a thinner carbon fiber rod, it was necessary to set an extra cylinder pivot in the thickness of the big black box for stability.

the needle rotating with the models ©好似飞行

view of the models from the big black box in the center ©好似飞行


悬念 | Suspense


When the last model walked back, the music was turned off and the rotation of the needle stopped. The long end of the rod rose slowly from the center of the circular space with the sound of gears turning. The end of rod took 5 to 6 seconds to rose up to 2 meters height and then stayed for 2-3 seconds. The condition of leverage balance is F1·L1=F2·L2. When the lengths of the power arms (L) at the two ends of the pivot was obviously different and it seemed that there was no power (F) intervention, the rodtilted to the short end. This illusion made everyone puzzled at this time.

mechanical principle exploded axon ©好似飞行


The pneumatic double-cylinder lifting valve was responsible for pushing up one end of the rod and cooperating with the chain bearing set to prevent from what would happen next that the end with the free fall motion rebounded many times, so that the knock motion could be  as nice and clean as possible.


高潮 | Climax


When the scene seems frozen, suddenly the motor was powered off. Following the principle of leverage,  the needle took 0.36 second to complete the free fall motion. The shocking sound of the hitting made by the metal hollow disk hits audiences’ awareness . Physical truth broke artificial illusion,  the “sparks” were ejected and floating in the air with knocking echoes. The knocking sound was expected to reflect multiple times in the circular space and produced strong echoes.

the needle tilting in the opposite direction ©好似飞行

the needle falling down ©好似飞行


However In the sound effect simulation map, where particles overlapped would produce unexpected harsh noises. This is why there was no seat in the center of the circle where the particles obviously overlapped,and other positions might cause noises were left for passages.  When there were more than 200 audience and their seats, and existing sound-absorbing clothes hung under the ceiling, the reverberation time would be reduced, and the trailing sound would be shortened. In order to achieve shocking echoes, an amplifier was placed in the disc. its connected loudspeaker on lamps frameworkassisting in spreading the sound in the whole space.

acoustic simulation ©好似飞行


Splashing “sparks” helped emphasize the fact that the illusion was broken.  After testing, the champagne gold foil that could stay in the air for a while, reflected the light and was not easy to be inhaled was selected. The gas cylinder under the disk was connected to the gas pump hidden in the backstage, which guaranteed gas would be enough for multiple tests, rehearsals and two consecutive fashion shows after on the same day.


结尾 | Ending


The Finale music suddenly sounded. All the models passed through the splashed sparks, as the ending of the show. The state of the unbalanced needle at this time revealed the original state of unbalanced truth. The light focused from the circular runway to the center of the space. The big black box which hid mechanism took the curtain, led this short play to the end.

all the models passed through the splashed sparks ©好似飞行

sparks at the end ©好似飞行


What “The Unbalanced Needle”  is trying to delivery is that being vigilant about daily phenomena and holding a clear awareness of the truth and the illusions that need to be maintained.

equipment assembly ©好似飞行


In the previous two collaborations, the architects designed installation based on fashion collection of theseason. And this time, the fashion designer and the architects worked separately after agreeing on a theme in the early stage. The tacit understanding and trust built by the cooperation experience made the communication process in different places very effective. Rather than specific scenery as usually a fashion show does, the conceptual crash leads to qualitative improvement for both the architects and fashion designers. This may be a successful experiment in the cooperation model between designers in different industries.

model photos ©好似飞行

installation size ©好似飞行

项目名称:失衡针 The Unbalanced Needle
设计方:好似飞行/House Fiction
项目设计 & 完成年份:设计时间:2021年3月 建成时间:2021年4月
摄影版权:好似飞行/House Fiction
合作方 结构顾问:潘从建博士-中国建筑科学研究院


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